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Whisked Away by Comodo

December 17, 2012

Tucked away on a quiet stretch of MacDougal Street just beyond the traffic of Houston is a brand new spot, Comodo.  This cozy restaurant features a Latin influenced cuisine with a well edited list of dishes in a rather romantic setting.  The flickering candle lights, the rustic setting with soaring ceiling beams and blossoming calla lilies by the bar with just the right level of acoustics, they all help set a mood of a hidden escape so effortlessly.

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And the food here at Comodo can be described as just as effortless as the surrounding.  While the menu seem to fully embrace the Latin flair with mezcals, poblano peppers and coffee rubs, the resulting creations simply show hints of influences from the Southern hemisphere.

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Juicy lamb sliders are delivered using an airy Brazilian cheese bread and a smokey chipotle cream.

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Tender octopus pieces are braised in mezcal and served with a brilliantly composed side of apple cider kale.  So bright and perfectly balanced between sweet and tart that it almost outshines the star of the dish.

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Creamy yet crispy cauliflower gratin with a hint of aji aioli might not be the most original dish but it was sure satisfying on a chilly winter night.

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The traditional bolognese pasta gets a Latin twist here at Comodo.  The typical red sauce is replaced with a creamy poblano based ragu that coats every strand of the fresh pasta.

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And the coffee rubbed cochinita here is a beautiful plate of tender Berkshire pork shoulders served with buttery trumpet mushrooms, greens and a side of truffled mashed potatoes.

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Even though it’s easy to say no to dessert at times, the fresh churros with a nutmeg and clove infused hot chocolate is so easily shared that you have no excuses to turn them away.  And of course, don’t forget to drink every last drop of that rich slightly spiced concoction.

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Finally, the meal at Comodo ends with two little pieces of brigadeiro.  Looking back, there are certainly little tweaks that would have elevated the meal just that much more.  I don’t think I will completely understand why my pork had to be separated from the mushrooms and greens by a harmless line drawn with sauce or why the pasta didn’t carry a much needed spicy kick or even why the delicious lamb sliders only came in a set of three (and yes, I wanted more, many more).  Nonetheless, once you pop these sweet brigadeiros in you mouth and let the heat melt the rounds of soft caramel and crunchy chocolate sprinkles, all you will be left with is a rosy sweet memory of the meal at Comodo.  

Comodo | 58 MacDougal Street, New York, NY 10012 | http://comodonyc.com

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