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The Dutch: A New Favorite in the Making

December 13, 2011

Andrew Carmellini’s The Dutch in Soho is one popular restaurant right now and while I have yet to stop by for dinner, I have sampled the brunch menu a few times as well as the lunch options.  Just from what I have had so far, I can tell you  that the dearth of reservations for dinner is not entirely uncalled for.

Now if I really loved my meals at the restaurant, why have I waited so long to write about this?  A part of the delay has to do with my recent 10-day trip to China as well as setting up my new laptop but a bigger part has to do with The Dutch’s no camera policy.  As you can probably guess, I was not a huge fan of this policy which seems to be new and confusing even to the staff as a few had to confer with the lead hostess.

After being asked to put away my Nikon the first time, I came more prepared on my subsequent visit one properly chilly New York winter morning.  Settled into a corner of the spacious restaurant comfortably, I was able to avoid attention by using my more diminutive Leica to sneak a few shots of my most recent meal there.  (Shhh – don’t tell!)

We shared a curry sugared donut to start, driven primarily by our curiosity.  Substituting for cinnamon, the curry offered a spicy warmth and undertone.  The curry was not nearly as strong as I thought it would be and the tart creme fraiche cooled off the warm and spiced donut.  Because the donut was not too big, it made for a great sweet treat in addition to savory brunch dishes.

For my entree, I stuck with what is now becoming my regular order of the soft scrambled eggs.  Now, these are not ordinary scrambled eggs found on every other brunch menu.  The Dutch executes a perfectly creamy version topped with two slices of tender silky sable with generous scoops of trout roe.  The roe glistened and reflected in the well-lit dining room and I loved how each single roe popped in my mouth.  One unfortunately thing is that being served in a huge bowl meant that I had to race to consume the eggs before they chilled rather fast to room temperature.

Every time I have been to The Dutch, I have always seen the hot fried chicken grace tables around me.  This time around, my dining companions finally heard my silent plea and ordered this dish to share.  The piping hot chicken came in a large skillet with two pieces of butter biscuits shiny with fresh honey.  The chicken pieces were cut into easy to share sizes and the skin shattered with a bite, releasing  juicy tender meat.

I wish I could share more pictures but alas, my abilities are handicapped.  But regardless of their attitude towards pictures, the food at The Dutch lures me every time.  Whether it is the ever-changing line-up of freshly made pies, a smokey moist BBQ pulled pork sandwich or the flavorful spicy blackened fish sandwich, I know I am getting something delicious and creative, something that I will probably rave about to anyone who will listen.

The Dutch | 131 Sullivan Street, New York, NY 10012 |

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